Discover Walla Walla

Recently I visited the estate vines of Three Rivers Winery and Tertulia Cellars, here in the Walla Walla Valley.   And as like the theatre master exclaims, "The stage is set" - - indeed the stage is set in the vineyards awaiting veraison and later the fall harvest.

The fruit has been set amongst the vines of the Walla Walla Valley. Many of the vines show a uniformed fruit zone of little green grape berries that are hard to the touch. These typically low-yielding vines will eventually produce clusters of purple and gold berries showing intense concentration of flavors. But for now, these little green berries have very little sugar and are high in organic acids.

Being out in these vineyards is a reminder to me that summer is almost over and autumn is on its way. The fall season in the Walla Walla Valley is my favorite time of year. Don't get me wrong, as there are things about the summers in Walla Walla that I love, as well.  Summers mean to me the harvest of Walla Walla Sweet Onions, fresh berries and stone fruit and other freshly picked produce. While the high temperatures throughout the days can be difficult for me, it's the summer evenings that I tend to live for. They are cool with a light warm breeze leaving reminders of the earlier heat.  It is these warm days and cool nights of the area that also help retain the balance of acid and sugar levels in the wine grapes that overall give Washington wines their distinct characteristic balance in flavors.  The evenings are perfect for porch sitting while enjoying a glass of a chilled Walla Walla white wine or rosé.

Veraison is the start of berry ripening. The hard little green berries on the vine will soon become soft and take on the colors of their specific varieties - such as gold and translucent greens in white wine grapes and red and dark purple hues in the red wine grapes. From the beginning of veraison to harvest, the berries will increase in volume, weight, and brix (sugar content). They will grow about half their final size when they enter the stage of veraison. This stage in the vineyards signals the beginning of the ripening process and typically takes place about 40-50 days after fruit set. Veraison is an exciting time of the year, but it can also be a stressful time for the vineyard owners and winemakers.

Summer days in Walla Walla can reach as high as 100 degrees in temperatures and it can also mean it is time to turn on the drip irrigation above each trunk of the vine.  Irrigation is a fine science of understanding the grapes needs. Too much water and the vines will use their energy growing more foliage instead of concentrating on the intensity of flavors in the grapes. Too little water? The vines can become overstressed showing droopy shoots and tendrils, sunburned leaves and fruit, as well as pesky little bugs wanting to take up residence on the vines.

It is an exciting, yet arduous time now in the vineyards.  But as you can see, before we know it, the first crush of 2010 will be on the horizon.